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January 8th, 2005, 09:35 PM   #1
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FE650e Headlight Questions

Well, as most of you may already know, the headlight is only connected to the 35 watt low beam filament. I'm also sure most have heard of what the KTM guys have been doing....which is to simply switch the connector lead from the 35 watt low beam leg to the 55 watt high beam leg, for almost double the light output. The easily forseeable problem with this mod is that the simple lighting coil powering the electrical/battery charging system may easily overheat, shortening it's life substantially.

Does anybody have any long term feedback on this high wattage route?

How about an aftermarket HID unit? Sure they may be a little costly, but they only use 35 watts to produce roughly 5 times the light output that the 55 watt HIGH BEAM filament will produce! And it would still probably be MUCH CHEAPER than a new lighting coil.....

An HID unit would certainly allow us to have our cake and eat it too! A LOT more light output with a whiter, easier to see with beam.....and all using only the original 35 watts....without taxing the original design of the charging/electrical system either. Anybody know of an available kit???
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January 8th, 2005, 10:18 PM   #2
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Plenty of power "Wattage"

I was told that you can buy a 55watt H4 and remove (bend over) a tab? to get the extra lighting. The lighting coil is supposed to be 120-130watts. Should be plenty of power.
They (local shop) did mention something about a heating problem with the higher wattage bulbs burning a hole in the headlight plastic??
Hope that helps,
John
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January 9th, 2005, 01:00 AM   #3
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If it is similar system as -04 you probably have someting like 70 W in total.

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January 9th, 2005, 08:55 AM   #4
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12V 150W

My manual (04) states that the generator is 12v 150W. Depending on how much is being used for charging the battery, and running the tail light, there should be plenty of power left over for a higher wattage bulb.

12V- 150W translates to roughly 12.5 Amps. P(watts)/V(volts)=I(current)The battery is a 7amp hour battery which means if you didn't use any of battery juice you would have all of that available - minus the wiring resistance.

Even a totally dead battery would charge completely within an hours time with no load.
If heat is an issue for these generators, then the figure of 70watts, to me, seams very safe. Since you would be riding at night it should be cooler??

John
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January 9th, 2005, 09:45 AM   #5
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Re: 12V 150W

Originally Posted by jmumme
My manual (04) states that the generator is 12v 150W. ...
Yes, I know but even Husaberg (David) admits that that figure is far too high. KTM has similar figures but that is bul... as well. A 450 -04 with two HID (2x42W) drain the battery within roughly an hour. He has now redone the stator fix so hopefully, it will last longer. Now, the bike starts easier due to properly charged battery as well.
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January 9th, 2005, 04:27 PM   #6
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Re: FE650e Headlight Questions

Couple of questions / notes:
1. I'm not personally familiar with anything made this millennium, but didn't the ignition change from SEM to Kokusan between 04 & 05 (or was it 03 & 04)? If so, the SEM specs would not apply to the Kok. I think the SEM uses two windings same size that can be run in parallel to get more power where the Kok has a weird arrangement with two different sized windings in series.

2.
Originally Posted by rustie
The easily forseeable problem with this mod is that the simple lighting coil powering the electrical/battery charging system may easily overheat, shortening it's life substantially.
I disagree. If the Kok has a regulator on its lighting windings then these work by dead shorting the winding when the voltage gets too high each AC cycle. During this time the stator current (and hence power dissipation in the stator winding) is at absolute maximum. The more power you can dissipate somewhere else (eg the headlight) the less heating in the stator.

3. I saw the latest KTMs have a H4 bulb behind an almost clear plastic light lens. Do they have a melting problem? If not is the 05 'berg headlight similar enough that it might be OK with a H4 bulb?
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January 9th, 2005, 06:24 PM   #7
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The ratings on the Kokusan are highly overated. If you are going to run anykind of HID effectively you should get the stator rewound. Baja Designs offers this service. They also have a nice duel spot HID they sell. It's nothing $700 should'nt take care of.
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January 12th, 2005, 06:38 PM   #8
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So does anybody know what the true wattage that is going to the battery from the charging coil (NOT the lighting coil....it's pure AC on an 05 FE650e)???

If there is enough wattage to power one 35 watt HID, it should not be a problem to wire that HID directly to the battery by a simple switch (another duplicate of the stock switch). There is certainly enough power in the batt to ignite one HID unit....just as long as there is anything substantially past 35 watts to put even a small charge back into the batt.

Then, you could use the existing AC lighting coil (which now powers the stock 35/55 watt halogen headlight) to power an auxillary H1 bulb in the lower left corner of the stock headlight using another switch mounted on the left side opposite the stock headlight switch.

....AND, I just located a KTM all GLASS duplicate of the Berg's plastic headlight that comes with the proper H1 bulb in that lower left corner. An HID can't melt this unit!

So, possibly use the batt to power one HID (depending on leftover charging current)....and use the lighting coil to run the H1 as an auxillary light source (maybe not both at the same time though). I ordered another stock switch that I will mount on the left side....it'll look totally factory.
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January 12th, 2005, 10:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by rustie
So does anybody know what the true wattage that is going to the battery from the charging coil (NOT the lighting coil....it's pure AC on an 05 FE650e)???
Do you have a wiring diagram? I have seen an approximation of 20 W for -04.

Originally Posted by rustie
There is certainly enough power in the batt to ignite one HID unit....just as long as there is anything substantially past 35 watts to put even a small charge back into the batt.
You will ignite the HID with the battery. But if you fit a HID why not do the stator work and replace the regulator? Then you can run the HID as long as you want and probably your H1 as well. The HID lamp is 35 W but then you have some power lost in the unit so you need at least 42 W to the HID. Otherwise you will drain the battery.
HID unit
Output power 35 W with the efficiency of 87-90% => around 40 W

Originally Posted by rustie
Then, you could use the existing AC lighting coil (which now powers the stock 35/55 watt halogen headlight) to power an auxillary H1 bulb in the lower left corner of the stock headlight using another switch mounted on the left side opposite the stock headlight switch.
If you have a HID and compare with a H1 the H1 will add very little. I am not even sure you will notice if the H1 works or not. If you go off-road it's better with lights on the helmet than two lamps on the bike. To be legal you need low and high beam.
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January 12th, 2005, 10:34 PM   #10
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mikst.
The auxillry H1 bulb would only be used in the event of the HID failing....not in conjunction with the HID at the same time (you would indeed never see it).

As to the Nucon HID site, their ballast units are certainly smaller than anything here in the USA for a full 35 watts. Do you know of any company selling them in the USA at this time?
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