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-   -   cooling liquid (http://husaberg.org/cooling-systems/24170-cooling-liquid.html)

Mazzokie June 3rd, 2017 09:44 AM

cooling liquid
 
Hello, I have a Husaberg 600fe 1995 with blue coolingliquid.
I havnt changed it once as the owner in 8 years so its way older.
But the liquid looks good and the inside looks good too, no leaks.
A week a go the engine boiled for the first time but only for a brief moment and I was almost home.
It was 26 degrees with no wind that day but I know it have handled that in the past.
Which type of coolingliquid do I have?
Or I could use this:
Peak Global Life Time Antifreeze & Coolant
It is the only one you could mix with any cooling-liquid
Or I could flush the system with water and fill it with the product that will keep the engine alive the longest.

regards Michael

lvspeed June 3rd, 2017 05:26 PM

cooling
 
Hello Mazz. Please drain the old coolant NOW. If you are not worried about your aluminum engine at all, change coolant every two years. Try for each spring tho.
Refill with clean tap water. Drain fully. Refill with tap water. Ride bike around for exactly 10 mins. Park it vertically and let cool. Drain fully. IF the water came out dirty, repeat above step until only clean comes out.
Now you have it clean enough. Any good auto part shop can sell you antifreeze for pure aluminum performance engines. Buy a few litres of distilled water. Mix this 50/50. Gently shake jug. Note: this mix is good to -25 C easily. SLOWLY pour into bike. When full, leave cap off and kick engine over 10 times. Top up, apply cap. Ride for 10 mins. Park vertically, let cool. Remove cap and squint at level. Adjust level to bottom of filler neck. Replace cap. Ride bike for a whole tank of gas. I do not mean trials riding. Go to open areas and rip it. Lots of sideways, some good air time is recommended. Change oil and filter. Check coolant again when cold. Set up suspension, chain, valves, tighten everything. Wash bike. Grease everything. NOW go riding, fast, and I bet that bike feels like new.
haha it really isn`t that much to do, Husabergs almost work on themselves. Good luck, L

FE350 June 3rd, 2017 09:35 PM

Change the fluid, The fluid should be changed regularly as it takes so little why let it stand. Coolant does not last forever. Good clean coolant is best. Chances are the fluid is Motul as KTM recommends. It really don't matter what you use as long as it is good quality and recommended by the manufacture it will work. Colour is just dye and that's it. It makes it easy for the technician to identify is all. 8 years is a long time. Your overheating issue could have been anything from a thermostat to running lean???????

Mazzokie June 5th, 2017 11:31 AM

I have done a lot with the bike (overall improvements, never cosmetic) to make it start easy (only kick) to have strong idle in most conditions and great power in the whole register.
One flaw i had was that the sparkplug becomes blacker and blacker until the idle becomes weaker and soon impossible to start, so the needleclip is moved up one bit to se if it helps, the throttle is modded so the throttle-position is way higher than original and I have size 52 in idle-nozzle but still not to high idle for my taste.
It is probably running lean but as far as I see it its for the best of two worlds.
My bike is consuming a lot of oil, but it always has(for 8 years) no outer leaks, it all goes out by piston, so my theory is thats why my sparks goes black so easy.
Never black smoke or bad engine power so I guess Im on the rigt side of the limit:)
Feels like my bike is the only one of its kind left, It looks like frankensteins monster but in the woods its a petrol-bull on steroids!

regards Michael

ede June 6th, 2017 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FE350 (Post 180609)
Change the fluid, The fluid should be changed regularly as it takes so little why let it stand. Coolant does not last forever. Good clean coolant is best. Chances are the fluid is Motul as KTM recommends. It really don't matter what you use as long as it is good quality and recommended by the manufacture it will work. Colour is just dye and that's it. It makes it easy for the technician to identify is all. 8 years is a long time. Your overheating issue could have been anything from a thermostat to running lean???????

Colour is NOT just dye! It helps to differ between different types of coolant (manufacturer specicfic). Basically there is two different kinds of coolant:
  1. silicate-based coolant
  2. silicate-free coolant

While silicate-based coolant protects the surfaces with additives (silicate), silicate-free coolant causes a chemical reaction (salt and organic acids). Don't mix these different types. Result could be a not-corosion-protected surface in your engine and also no anti-freeze protection in winter. Usually silicate-based coolant is used in aluminium engines.

When using silicate-free based coolant the coolant-changing interval could increase from 2 up to 4 years - with the disadvantage of aluminium-corosion.

Example for BASF Glysantin:
G48 (green): silicate-based / aluminium engines (BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Volvo, Opel, etc.)

G05 (yellow): silicate-based / for cast iron engines

G30 (red-violet): silicate-free, but also for aluminium engines (Chevrolet, Citroen, Honda, Hyundai)

G40 (red-violet): with "silicium-additive"... for modern engines

G 33 (blue-green): silicate-free, for Peugeot, Citroen

G34 (orange): silicate free, especially for GM and Opel engines


I use G48 in a 50/50 ratio with distilled water.

FE350 June 6th, 2017 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ede (Post 180653)
Colour is NOT just dye! It helps to differ between different types of coolant (manufacturer specicfic). Basically there is two different kinds of coolant:
  1. silicate-based coolant
  2. silicate-free coolant

While silicate-based coolant protects the surfaces with additives (silicate), silicate-free coolant causes a chemical reaction (salt and organic acids). Don't mix these different types. Result could be a not-corosion-protected surface in your engine and also no anti-freeze protection in winter. Usually silicate-based coolant is used in aluminium engines.

When using silicate-free based coolant the coolant-changing interval could increase from 2 up to 4 years - with the disadvantage of aluminium-corosion.

Example for BASF Glysantin:
G48 (green): silicate-based / aluminium engines (BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Volvo, Opel, etc.)

G05 (yellow): silicate-based / for cast iron engines

G30 (red-violet): silicate-free, but also for aluminium engines (Chevrolet, Citroen, Honda, Hyundai)

G40 (red-violet): with "silicium-additive"... for modern engines

G 33 (blue-green): silicate-free, for Peugeot, Citroen

G34 (orange): silicate free, especially for GM and Opel engines


I use G48 in a 50/50 ratio with distilled water.



Very good info but the color is as I noted Just Dye. As for instance GM and Opel fluid is just General Motors trademarked colour. That would be called DEXCOOL You can get GM aftermarket in green and yellow.


Yes it is just dye. It helps the technician identify the coolant to what type. Some manufactures use different colours as per their brand.
ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are your two basic types and some manufactures claim their additives help with other things that I will not get into.
Do not play into color as it might not tell you correctly. Make sure to read and use what manufacture recommends.

FE350 June 6th, 2017 08:29 AM

Oh and to note. You can really use any coolant if you change regularly. Brands such as Dexcool say coolant is good for 10 years but latter found this was not the case.
Change it yearly and never have a problem.

Mazzokie June 6th, 2017 08:58 AM

Thanks!

regards Michael

zaga June 7th, 2017 07:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi

I don't know nothing about the subject

Can you tell me if this is safe for the bikes ? A have a lot of this

ESSO bs6580 1992

Thanks
:cool:
ZAGA

FE350 June 7th, 2017 07:47 AM

As long as your machine requires and can use Mono Ethylene Glycol.
If its for your XC300 as you list than the factory coolant is Motorex 5.0 and it is Ethylene Glycol based. So with that said it should be ok. Mono is just poly based and should not hurt anything, more than that it should help.


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