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Cooling Systems Cooling Systems - Radiators, Water Pumps, Fans, Coolant, etc.


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May 4th, 2005, 07:07 PM   #11
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Hi Gang,

I recently adapted a set of B&B WR250 guards to my 98 FE501. Very solid and substantial. http://www.bbaluminium.com/WR4_rads.jpg
The pic doesn't highlight the open mesh behind the louvres.

Works well so far.

Steve
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May 4th, 2005, 09:18 PM   #12
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I had aluminium guards on my '00 501 but was told not to put them on my new '05 550 because it will make the bike overheat. THe 501 never got hot (except when idling for long periods), so what's the difference?

Also has anyone setup a temperature light on a 'Berg. The KTM LC4 had them as standard and they would be a good idea for Husaberg's (especially for hot climates of Australia). My current temperature gauge is to cut the overflow tube off 3 inches below the radiator so you can see the end of it in the normal riding position or feel it if it turns to steam.
Cheers
Mark
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May 5th, 2005, 12:28 AM   #13
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interesting views.

the diagonal OEM louvres allow the most air through for sure, not quite sure what is meant by "not horizontal, not vertical but diagonal" by bendberg so i'd better look at a set of boss's guards and figure what they do.

the evans sounds good because like berger says-it won't cavitate right where it's meant to be picking up heat from the engine!

have none of the yanky mags done a good article on this? back-to-back testing?

nobody worries about heat transfer from the headers and nobody has mentioned bleeding the system at the screw between the two headers. now that did suprise me!

nobody mentioned different pressure caps and their effect on this? does it keep things under wraps (in which case a higher pressure cap must be good news) or does it hide several sins?

for me, you can't beat the original OEM louvres but they're an appalling design around the downtube of the frame! it's as though this area needs attention.

regards

Taffy
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May 5th, 2005, 06:47 AM   #14
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I have considered wrapping the headers, but have not come up with a suitible material. I am also worried that it will actually retain more heat.

As far as the 04/05 bikes go you MUST use the bleed screw on the top of the head to remove all of the air from the system.
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May 5th, 2005, 04:36 PM   #15
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Hey Taffy, take a look at the Boss gaurds and you will see what I am talking about in regaurds to the diagonal slots. I did not know about a bleed screw between the head pipes! Do the older models have that? Heat transfer from the headers is an issue mabey, but is a condition that we can not really do anything about. As Berger mentioned wrapping the head pipes( this helps performance also I believe.). I do not know of a product that would take the abuse of off-road conditions, and do not know if the pay back would be worth the effort. The radiater cap is set at opening at a specific pressure for a reason, so upping the cap pressure rating is a band-aid fix at best. The best way to keep your bike cooled down is to jet it properly, keep it clean, and fresh oil. How bout you Taff? you do a lot of experimenting what have you found?
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May 5th, 2005, 04:46 PM   #16
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i'm just sucking it in for now. yet again the little 'un doesn't seem to suffer so much. we're all forgetting that husaberg did summink about it to the cylinder head or gasket in '03 or '04 plus (can't be bothered to check the doc!) and so we should take a note of that. what they actually did hasn't been clarified on our hallowed pages. as usual it's left to a small minority to work it all out, put it down in a concise package to hear that immortal phrase- "huh?".

i notice that i have one head-the BV head-that has all four areas open to coolant whilst the SV heads have only three bays open and not even bothering with the inlet on the right area.

the correct plug helps a great deal, most of all compression, by far the most is compression/ignition advance combined.

jetting; 800d they should run at but will run at 1300d if running lean.

but it's getting the air through and the heat out that most interests me.

regards

Taffy
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May 5th, 2005, 04:54 PM   #17
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Thanks Taffy, I'll brush up on my proper english and get back to you on the first part of that reply. When you refer to 800d and 1300d, I really,really, hope you are refering to celsius!
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May 6th, 2005, 06:08 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by BendBerg
I did not know about a bleed screw between the head pipes! Do the older models have that?
The coolant air bleed was introduced in 04.
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May 6th, 2005, 08:36 AM   #19
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the earlier engines have what appears to be a grub screw between the two headers so i think i at least have one as well!

regards

taffy
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May 6th, 2005, 05:19 PM   #20
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I thought that with everything else equal you was wanting to to know what would keep boulders, fence posts and such from going through your raditator. That was my line of thought, if I miss understood I`m sorry. The way I understand it you had better be very careful what you put in front and the rear or else you might have overheating.
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