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Cooling Systems Cooling Systems - Radiators, Water Pumps, Fans, Coolant, etc.


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June 26th, 2014, 11:50 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by steve View Post
Bearing has to come out for the oil seal, but its all one piece from memory. Alternative is an ORANGEBERG kit which uses a separate seal and a smaller bearing.

Be real careful with the kickstart shaft when pulling the cover. See if you can keep pressure on it the whole time. If it moves out a bit, you need to pull the clutch to reset it, and you don't realise until you find the cover just doesn't quite pull up tight. I know!

I don't recognise the spring, but its been a while since I pulled mine apart.
Thanks, Does it sound like it's the oil seal thats wrecked?
Hmmm, When I took it apart and put it back together earlier I didn't have any issues putting the cover back on.

Do you mean the cover is a bit loose and doesn't seal up? or?
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June 27th, 2014, 12:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by edelweiss View Post
you can not contaminate oil with coolant as a result of worn seals on water impeller shaft. if this happened so quickly, this could happen only through rings on piston sleeve or o-ring which seals the channel from side cover to the left case. if the water seal leaks, the coolant leaks through the weep hole, even if the oil seal on the special bearing is worn, the coolant has not chance to go to the left case this way.
the spring is not an original part of your motor, forget about it.
When I look through I cannot see any oil seal attached to the bearing


Oh, And I have figured out what was probably making the coolant leak into the engine.
I am missing the O-Ring that connects the case to the left hand case that the coolant travels through.


Am I correct in thinking that even if I wreck the oil seal no water/coolant should get in, Rather the oil should come out the weep hole?

Last edited by mattwilkinson; June 27th, 2014 at 02:48 AM.
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June 27th, 2014, 01:45 PM   #23
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Matt, sorry but I am out of town for a bit.

At this point I suggest you search "Orangeburg", and get one of his kits. It comes with a new bearing and seal. You might also consider new clutch cover and water pump gaskets, and water pump shaft o ring.

You are likely correct that the coolant passage o ring, if missing, will immediately dump all coolant into the case.

With everything properly in place, if the weep hole leaks water then the shaft seal is bad, and if it leaks oil then the bearing seal is bad.

It took me 3 times into the case before I got everything tight.

Hope this helps.

Steve
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June 27th, 2014, 03:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mattwilkinson View Post
When I look through I cannot see any oil seal attached to the bearing


Oh, And I have figured out what was probably making the coolant leak into the engine.
I am missing the O-Ring that connects the case to the left hand case that the coolant travels through.


Am I correct in thinking that even if I wreck the oil seal no water/coolant should get in, Rather the oil should come out the weep hole?
yes unless the weephole is blocked and/or both the water and oil seals are really really stuffed.

careful with the kickstarter shaft, keep it pushed in as much as possible, if you let it come out a bit you have to take the clutch off to put it back properly.
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June 27th, 2014, 05:02 PM   #25
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I can remember seeing the kickstarter shaft come out a bit both times i took the clutch cover off, But the clutch cover did go back on alright??
How hard is it to pull the clutch?


If the kickstarter shaft does come out, Will it mean that the kickstarter gets locked or the cover won't go on properly?
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June 27th, 2014, 09:00 PM   #26
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on my bike if it comes out the cover still goes back on but the kickstarter won't work

its all in the first link i put up

Originally Posted by steve View Post
When I took the clutch cover off, before refitting, I ground out 2 small reliefs so that its easy to pluck the water pump seal out to swap it if needed without having to remove the cover again.

Be really careful holding the kick starter shaft in place when you remove the cover. If not, and it moves maybe 2 mm or so out, the mechanism will slip. It might look OK, but the cover will not go back on, and the kick start won't work. For me, this has been the worst part of the process. Shimming out the sledge a mm or so helps. I don't have any pics, sorry.


clutch removal is the same as just about every other dirtbike, the manual in the "service manual" section to the left of the main page is pretty good.

you just need to be able to hold the inner hub from turning either with a locking plate or a funny spanner

Last edited by bushmechanic; June 27th, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
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June 27th, 2014, 09:25 PM   #27
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Matt, just be careful with the kick shaft, and particularly the shaft needle bearing that may walk out with the shaft.

Also, until you are certain everything is tight, just use water in the radiator, and cheap oil. When you get there you can drain, replace the oil filter, and refill with the good stuff.

If you film the outside of the cover gasket with antiseize, you will be able to R&R the cover many times using the same gasket, just don't over torque the bolts.

Steve
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June 27th, 2014, 10:50 PM   #28
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Thanks everyone, I will tape up the shafts when I reinstall the cover and try not to damage anything

Unfortunately I will be on holidays for a week and a half on Tuesday so won't be able to see the outcome of this for a couple of weeks

I've ordered the part from my KTM shop here in Australia and will install it when I get back
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