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July 13th, 2017, 08:37 AM   #31
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Yes Rainerio that is correct for sure, but finding the reason the problem exists is the first step, then correcting it. If the problem is from corrosion then he will need to fix that area. He mentioned that shorting the wires together runs the fan so I do not think it is a corroded wire but more a switch issue or an issue with the switch no touching the coolant thus coming to temp and switching on.
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July 13th, 2017, 03:40 PM   #32
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i havn't had a chance to do much with this yet, but I did check coolant level tonight, its just above the fins - I think thats the right level?




Will boil/check my old broken one (kept it) and this latest non-functioning one asap.

Also get a manual toggle switch wired up

Thanks for the replies and suggestions!
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July 13th, 2017, 06:09 PM   #33
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I had car door switch go bad. Took 13 years for it to fail from rain and it's inside the car why did it go bad corrosion/oxidation. Granted it's not heat related like temp. Sensor but still no good at wire contact points. Anyway my fix is new switch with Dielectric Grease should be fine.Time will tell?
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July 13th, 2017, 09:44 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Rainerio View Post
I had car door switch go bad. Took 13 years for it to fail from rain and it's inside the car why did it go bad corrosion/oxidation. Granted it's not heat related like temp. Sensor but still no good at wire contact points. Anyway my fix is new switch with Dielectric Grease should be fine.Time will tell?
He has replaced the switch 3 times. I somehow don't think in the last six months the corrosion is that bad that he requires three thermo-switches????????? Just a thought from an automotive/motorcycle electrical technician???
Trying to help him out with my years of knowledge is all. He needs to isolate the issue is all. I am doing my best helping him online with what I can
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July 14th, 2017, 01:30 AM   #35
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I'm not saying Your help is wrong FE350 just throwing out possiblies. It's not just for jeffk95z it's for anyone reading this thread.
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July 14th, 2017, 06:39 PM   #36
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There is another possible cause. Perhaps the current is too high and switches are just burning out. Wire in relay. Use switch on signal circuit and fan on power side. Hook up power to 30 and fan to 87. Hook up switch to 85 and ground to 86. This might help you. Any regular relay good for 30 amps.
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July 14th, 2017, 09:48 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by polska View Post
There is another possible cause. Perhaps the current is too high and switches are just burning out. Wire in relay. Use switch on signal circuit and fan on power side. Hook up power to 30 and fan to 87. Hook up switch to 85 and ground to 86. This might help you. Any regular relay good for 30 amps.
Very good point as most thermos switches will be 12v or 24v application specific. Amperage is good on most between 25 to 50 amps.

Is this a factory hook up or did you add this in. Is it hooked to your headlight circuit? Or is it hooked directly to your battery?

If it is direct to battery you will only need a fuse and nothing more. If you have it in line to your headlight it might have AC voltage running through it and this could cause an issue as it requires DC voltage and voltage that does not spike big ranges.

The relay idea is great but will not change voltage and or reduce it in any way. It will stop from breaking down a circuit on a light wire application and if the harness was designed as a fan circuit it will have 18 or better gauge that will be more than sufficient for this application. I assume that the circuit is still good when you short the wires together the fan runs.

Easy way to check this circuit. Run a volt meter and check for AC or DC voltage and high spikes above 15V. If the voltage ramps hard on throttle and above 15v than it just might be on the wrong circuit and or a bad regulator. Stators put out AC and DC voltage to your system, little more complex that that but making it simple. Voltage regulator stabilizes the DC voltage to charge your battery. Lighting coils can produce AC just to the headlight. Back in the old days our bikes would have dim then bright lights upon rpm. These were AC lighting circuits for the headlights.

Just some food for thought.
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July 15th, 2017, 10:06 AM   #38
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I haven't done it yet. But if I do then I would either use factory hook up for relay swith side and just run power wire from battery to power side of relay then to fan and to ground. Or I would be looking for ignition dc power source for the switch side of the relay. I'd try to stay away from ac voltage.
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