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Cooling Systems Cooling Systems - Radiators, Water Pumps, Fans, Coolant, etc.


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June 29th, 2017, 02:54 AM   #31
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The little spring behind the seal lip can be removed, separated, shortened and rejoined. You'll see the join in the spring ring. Grab both sides and turn the right side counter clockwise. It should seperate. Cut a little off the larger end then rejoin. This will put a little more pressure on the seal lip to shaft.
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October 8th, 2017, 02:13 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by bushmechanic View Post
nice Zaga!

for some time I used 6mm seals and sanded them down to fit (5mm)

5 6 and 7mm wide seals seem to have been molded around the same steel cup so you can sand the rubber off down to 5mm wide before you hit the steel

this was only discovered because my trusty local bearing/ seal shop didn't have anything else

now I like to use an 07 -08 ktm 65 water pump seal it doesn't seem to wear the shaft much and is very nice soft blue stuff.
Is the KTM 65 seal oversize - 5mm/6mm, or same as standard 10x18x4? I'm going to have one more shot at the seal (+ the BBSKF6201 bearing) before I take the engine to bits completely. I'd like to try an oversize/thicker seal just to eliminate the worn shaft scenario.
Cheers.
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October 8th, 2017, 04:06 PM   #33
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It's the same size but It seems to work better than others when the shaft is worn
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October 12th, 2017, 12:33 PM   #34
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Went through many iterations of changing the seals.

The Kawasaki seal does not work.

The blue KTM seal works the best. You will need 10mm diameter heat shrink piece that will shrink down to 5mm. I used Emory cloth to clean up the grooves. The heat shrink is the key. I ended up replacing the seal (7) times before I got everything to seal and work correctly; mostly because the kick start shaft kept coming out when I pulled the cover, then forgot to check it before reassembly. I keep a few spare seals around and replace them whenever I go into the clutch side. I now have over 2000+ miles on the last seal.
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